檔車鍊條該怎麼保養呢?

大屁125

我的3錶狼剛過1000KM想從磨合期結束後一切保養都自己來,地一個一千公里碰到就就是鍊條保養的問題了,該把整條鍊條拆下來嗎?上油呢?用WD40行嗎?請各位前輩賜教囉!

Eyesman

回覆給:大屁125
到材料行(精品店)買專用鏈條油，WD40不要用

albert

我都用液態黃油,大賣場都有賣

sam

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'How to' guides	print version

<script language="javascript">   Chain maintenance Step 1- Preparation It pays to look after your chain. Correctly adjusted and properly lubricated, the chain delivers optimum power to the back wheel. If rusty and dry it can’t do your engine justice. Inspect your chain every 500 miles at the outside. Powerful bikes and large capacity V-twins particularly give chains an especially hard time.   A further complication is that road grit sticks to chain lube, effectively making a grinding paste that accelerates wear. So as well as adjustment and lubrication, keep your chain clean.   We used a Yamaha Fazer for this guide.   What you will need: - Sockets/spanners to loosen the wheel spindle - Spanners to adjust the chain - Paraffin or chain cleaner - Fresh lubricant   Setting up the bike If your bike has a centre-stand, chain care is much easier with the bike on that. Otherwise use a paddock stand or have a friend lift the bike up on the side-stand while you rotate the wheel and clean/lubricate the chain.   Cleaning the chain If using paraffin to clean the chain, rinse it off quickly to avoid perishing rings on O or X ring type chains. Allow the chain to dry before applying lube or moisture will be trapped under it.   Step 2 - Apply lubricant Use the correct type of lube for your chain, especially O ring types. Some lube is better absorbed by a warm chain. Check on the can to see whether to take the bike for a run first.   <script language="javascript" type="text/javascript"> 'How to' guides print version   <script language="javascript">   Cleaning your bike Step 1- Preparation   Regular cleaning should be a core part of your maintenance schedule, and not just because it helps them hold their resale value. A good wash and polish can reveal potential problems before they become crises. Follow the example of race mechanics. They don't clean bikes because they enjoy it – what they're looking for is fluid leaks, frame cracks and the like.   What you need: Bucket, sponge, rags, brushes, cleaning agents, polish, rags, access to plenty of clean water.   Step 2 - Tough stuff first Deal with the heaviest soiling first, such as chain lube on the rear wheel, swingarm and tail section. Paraffin or degreaser is most effective here and should be quickly rinsed away once it's done its job.   Caution! Make sure it doesn’t get into wheel bearings.   Brake dust comes off wheels and callipers easily when it's fresh but baked on dust will need to be agitated with a brush and brake cleaner to get it off.   Clean the area around the pistons too on the inside of the callipers.   Step 3 - Rest of the bike With those jobs done you can turn your attention to the rest of the bike. Dedicated bike or auto detergents are better than household washing up liquid. Don’t use solvents on plastics or screens.   A chamois is useful for drying the bike off avoiding streaks, but take care it doesn’t pick up any plastics and screen-damaging grit.   A jet washer can make cleaning quick and easy, but take care not to drive the grease out of headstock and wheel bearings, or lube from the chain.   Apply it to the inner run of the chain and centrifugal force will help it penetrate better. Wipe off any excess lube or it’ll find its way onto the back wheel/seat unit.   Step 3 - Adjust chain Loosen the spindle and adjust the chain in accordance with the bike manufacturer's instructions. Slack should be measured at the tightest point of the chain's run.   Be aware that on some bikes free play should be measured with the bike off its stand and a rider on board. Adjusters should be tweaked evenly to preserve wheel alignment.

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